The Everyman’s Guide to South African Wine

  Today’s Find: Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

It remains a mystery to me how the pastime of drinking wine has earned the dubious distinction of being a guilty pleasure.  Call me a few strands short on DNA, but I don’t feel a bit bad about indulging in wine – the more, the better, and optimally, vice versa – not even on those rare occasions when it results in a hangover.  In my drinking dictionary, remorse is not a word, and wine is sandwiched right in between the words vocation and yes (!).

For most of civilized society, though, the art of serious “wining” is still reserved for special occasions – when only the best will do.  After many years sampling the vineyard spoils, I’ve found a wine that will tickle taste buds of those on both sides of the great drinking divide.  Whether your’re a grand event consumer, or a quaffer (regardless of guilt) who aspires to that occasional something special, few wines check many boxes better than Thelema cabernet sauvignon.

Brimming with bold, berry flavors, softened by hints of coffee and eucalyptus (the latter a byproduct of trees planted near the vineyards) , this is a rich, velvety cab that goes down smoother than silk.  Powerful, yet elegant, it is stunning on its own, but an ultimate pleasure with a rare steak or red meat meal.  It’s my ultimate red wine “nuke” – da bomb I count can on to wow guests – especially the wine enthusiasts.  

 The ’08 vintage was another in series of top scoring cabs for Thelema – which have netted 90+ ratings from the top wine pros for twelve years running.  That many critics can’t be that wrong for that long - check it out yourself, and you’ll see why.  Prices can vary widely on this wine – ranging anywhere from $34 – $48 a bottle. With a little detective work locally or online, you may just find the bargain-priced bottles.  But either way, you will still have found yourself an ultimate red wine steal, and a memorable cab for whatever your occasi0n.

The Everyman’s Guide to South African Wine

Today’s Find:  Graham Beck Brut NV Methode Cap Classique (MCC)

It’s the holiday season, and corks have been popping everywhere.  But with 2012 just hours away, the bubbly best is yet to come.  Nothing summons up the sparkling spirits quite like New Year’s Eve.   And nothing  says “celebration” quite like South Africa’s Graham Beck (GB) brut.

This legendary Methode Cap Classique (South Africa’s unique designation for its sparkling wines) made its first splash on the international stage when Nelson Mandela selected it to be served at his inaugural festivities.  Then, according to the Chicago foodie press, it became a favorite of the Obamas during their Windy City dinner date days.  In spite of all its’ star power cache, this spectacular little sparkler has managed to remain an insiders’ secret here in the States.

Those who regularly drink champagne, and those who rate it for a living have had the downlow on this amazing value bubbly for years running.  It’s consistently grabbed ratings in the late 80s and early 90s, averaging 89 points from the grape gurus. With its classic tart fruit and mineral flavors, a yeasty kick and elegantly creamy mousse topping, this new world sparkler can readily compete with many an old world champagne label.   But the best news is that it does so at a fraction of the cost:  running anywhere from $12 – $18 a bottle, depending on your locale, this quality bubbly is a great value, and the perfect choice for an elegant celebration with a large group.

So, if you want the last laugh of 2011, and to start 2012 in style, let the pretenders have their Cristal and second mortgage bottles of champagne.  Ring in the new year raising a glass of the real power players’ bubbly, the drink of presidents and Nobel Prize winers:  Graham Beck Brut.   As they say in South Africa, “Cheers!” ……….and best wishes for a bubbly New Year from the Wild Life.

 The Everyman’s Guide to South African Wine

Today’s Find:  DeMorgenzon “DMZ” Syrah 2010

November is the month for pumpkins, spice and everything nice. Nothing goes better with these bounties of the season than a great bottle of wine –  and nothing teams up with the spices like a syrah. Whether it’s a nice, rich, fall harvest soup, red meat, or a spicy dish you’re planning to serve, you can count on this lush, peppery red wine to put the perfect finishing touch on your meal every time.

If you’re looking for a great syrah, and lots of “bang for your buck,” then look no further than DeMorgenzon “DMZ” syrah 2009.  After putting lots of syrahs through their paces this past month, I’m here to tell you this wine’s a beaut.  It’s an exceptionally well-balanced wine, brimming with dark, bold berry flavors that are perfectly complimented by the cinnamon and pepper notes at the back end.  Given their spicy “kick,”  lush is not a term I would typically use to describe syrahs, but in the case of this vintage DeMorgenzon, it applies.  That spicy ending is a lot like a vampire bite:  it gets your attention, but the whole experience is beyond soothing.  If you’re a syrah fan, it’s one you don’t want to miss.

You’ll look long and hard to find another $15 syrah that packs so much punch. So save yourself some time, and start stocking up now for the holiday herd.  But don’t wait for the biggest feast of the season to savor a sip – indulge yourself now!

Over the past month, I’ve tested lots of SA wines once, tested them twice………alright, time to stop counting in print.   Let’s just say I’ve tested many wines, many times, in some cases more times than I’m willing to enumerate. This wineathon wasn’t intended to test the outer limits of my liver (although it would have been a good place to start if that was my goal), but to gin up the mother of all wine lists for a “Drink SA wine” blowout.

It’s a rare event when I can’t find a way to like something about most wines, but on this mission, I was looking for love.  And thanks to power tasting, I was able to separate the good from the great, and find it in lots of places (and to think I got all that and the health benefits that come with drinking lots of red wine, too!)

The blowout’s over, the votes are in, and all thumbs are pointing up on these wines – so much so that I’ve decided to offer up my “Best of 2011″ SA wine list this month, instead of waxing on one wine. Included on this list are some of the country’s top-ranked wines, as well as my favorite “superquaffers,” which offer up amazing quality for their price. Read up, drink down……….and until next month, you’ll have plenty to cheer about!

Included on the list are a few wines only available in SA that I brought back on my Wild Life winery tour. They are there because a) they belong on the “best of” list and b) if I’m doing my job, you’ll get to SA yourself and give them a test drive someday!

SAUVIGNON BLANC

SA has an ideal climate for growing these grapes, but only in the past decade has the country really gotten off the porch and started running with the big international dogs in this market – notably as New Zealand struggled to meet the demand for top notch SBs on the world market. Generally, SA SBs are a bit less acidic, more grassy, and full of minerals than their New Zealand counterparts. Every vintner in SA will tell you that growing conditions were absolutely perfect for SB in 2009, and then again in 2010, so when you see those bottles on the shelves, grab them fast if you like dry whites. They are still a great bargain.

Graham Beck Pheasant’s Run 2010 (SA only)

Sauvignon blanc Heaven on Earth(y) – featured in Back to the Wild Life. SB lovers, beware: one sip and you’ll be proposing to this wine. You won’t want to live without it.

Buitenverwachting Hussey’s Vlei 2010 (SA only)

Another single vineyard wine with a style true to its’ Hussey name – sexy!

Robert Parker/Wine Advocate: 91+ points.    Wine Spectator: 90 point

Southern Right 2010

Named after the whales on the estate coast, this wine is one of the most consistent and solid SBs year to year.  A huge international seller, it is widely available.

Robert Parker/Wine Advocate: 86 points

*Superquaffer Buitenverwachting “Beyond” 2010

Another Wild Life favorite. Using the English meaning of its tongue-twisting Dutch name, the winery created an American marketing miracle.  Lip-licking good any day, but at $9.99 a bottle locally, (several stores), it’s also a gobsmacking great deal.

Wine Spectator: 86 points

Trizanne (Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon) 2010

Just a kiss of drier-than-dry semillon in this mix makes for an unexpectedly elegant wine. So soft and intoxicating, yet rich, it feels like it should be coming out of a perfume mister.

Groot Constantia 2010

Straight from the oldest winery in South Africa and Capetown’s Constantia wine route comes another solid performer sure to pluck SB lovers’ heartstrings.  Rare in US.

Robert Parker/Wine Advocate:  87 points

CHENIN BLANC

SA is king of the chenins, or as the locals call it, “steen.”  These grapes now dominate production, claiming 20 percent of their market.  Right behind quantity has come quality, with intense competition among vintners making SA one of the few places that can rival the world famous Loire for top-notch chenins.

Stellenrust “45” Barrel Fermented Chenin ’09 (SA only)

Twenty-something accountant and dentist chuck it all to make wine, and break through the pack with this stunning blend of barrel and tank fermented wine called “ageworthy.”

Douglas Green 2010

Uncomplicate your life, or at least your wine. This one’s simple, but it’s a nice, goes-down-easy and pleasant wine – and yours for under $10.

*Superquaffer Pieter Cruythoff  2010  (Unrated – made for export only)

Back the trucks up to the docks, move the cases in, and put the pedal to the metal – whatta steal!  This new arrival from Riebeek Cellars is a light, peppy little wine that’s making waves with its frisky, fruit flavors and market-entry pricing.  At $7 bucks a bottle, (by the case, Unwined, Alexandria) it’s the perfect wine for a party, or a group sundowner.

CHARDONNAY

SA has had limited production of this grape in the past, so the country is still clawing its way up the ladder in this intensively competitive international market – but they’ve turned out some eminently respectable chards in the process.  Robert Parker has called call them SA’s most consistent wines, and its’ top lines world class.  Forget the big, buttery chards you grew up on – SA’s niche is a much more crisp, mineral-driven wine.

Rustenberg Five Soldiers 2007

A lemon-limey chard, it’s been one of SA’s top performers, and probably one of its better known examples of the “breed.”  Don’t drink it too cold – you might miss all that luscious fruit!

Wine Spectator: 90 points

Hamilton Russell 2010

Legendary winemaker Kevin Grant made a huge splash with this “great white” in the 90s,  and continues to be recognized as one of the top producers of fine whites in the country.

Robert Parker/Wine Advocate: 93 points

*Superquaffer Excelsior (unwooded) 2010

It’s tough competing with so many stars and 90+ ratings, but pound for pound and price point, this is the little engine that could.  This estate from the up-and-coming Robertson region is hitting our shores with fine, simple wines that you’d be proud to serve to guests at prices you’d forgotten existed.  This little number goes for $8.99 a bottle (Wegmann’s – VA).   Wow-SA!

Robert Parker: 88 points Wine Spectator: 82 points International Wine Cellar: 87 points

METHODE CAP CLASSIQUE

MCC is SA’s way of saying champagne, and it’s the time-honored tradition of bubbly-making that the French Huguenots brought to the Cape. The only thing missing is Champs-Elysees pricing. Very few MCCs make their way to the US, but SA wine powerhouse Graham Beck has several varieties that are widely available here.

Graham Beck Brut NV

This MCC set the SA industry standard, and became famous when Nelson Mandela served it as his inaugural festivities. According to the Chicago food press, it’s also a dinner date favorite of the Obamas. You’ll never be embarrassed to serve this to guests – unless they are Francais – and the $15 – $17 price is right, too.

Robert Parker: 89 points Wine Spectator: 83 points

Graham Beck Blanc de Blancs NV

Pop the cork and let this creamy, mousse-laden bubbly loose. 100 percent chardonnay grapes.

DESSERT

These “late harvest” wines run the gamut, but are always sweet, a little syrupy, and an easy-going alternative to stronger liquor nightcaps.

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2005

This wine, first made in 1685, was a favorite of European Kings and Emperors – Napoleon kept the royal rack stocked, and even ordered it in exile – and the subject of musings by Jane Austen and Charles Dickens.  Think honeysuckle on steroids.  This special elixir is the way to take your dinner party from standard to snazzy, or to end holiday meals.

Wine Spectator: 94 points

PINOT NOIR

Thriving in cooler climates, pinots have found the perfect home in the mountainous, coastal areas of the western Cape.   The country has produced some top-drawer stuff,  but US  availability has varied over the years.  According to many a frustrated Cape vintner, the local baboons have developed quite a taste for pinot – which just  goes to show that despite their bad behavior, the fanged little F***s don’t lack for good taste.

Hamilton Russell 2009

Located right off the Hermanus coast, the winery is an ideal, year-round cool spot to take pinot grapes to their outer limits.  This wine, now 30 years in the making, put Walker Bay on the vintners’ map.

Robert Parker:  93 points

PINOTAGE

Pinotage is a SA specialty – a cross between a pinot noir and cinsault grapes, developed at Stellenbosch University.  It’s a very unique, rich red wine that generates strong opinions. Give it a try, if for no other reason than so few pinotages ever see the light of day in the states.

Southern Right 2010

Don’t be afraid of the urban legends on gritty Pinotage.    This brand does it as right as it can be done.  Drink like a giraffe at the watering hole, and let it go down real slow.  Savor the flavor.

Simonsig 2010

Drink out of the box – and I don’t mean a carton.  This middle range line from a top-drawer pinotage producer is a pleasing, off-beat red, and good example of the distinctive pinotage flavor.

MERLOT

Creation 2010 (SA only)

Put your Sideways prejudices aside, and indulge in a nice, smooth, soothes-the-nostrils red.  This young, hip Walker Bay winery is producing more impressive wines every year.

SHIRAZ

You say Syrah, they say Shiraz. Most of the time, anyway.  A SA smackdown of the Aussies’ offerings in a late 90s international competition set plantings on fire, and the motherland on the shiraz map. Production has increased almost tenfold since then.Boekenhoutskloof 2007

Boekenhoutskloof 2007 Leaping Cape leopards!  Or as they say in text-speak, OMFG.  Even the snappy spices melt provocatively into this alluring red that sits on top shelves world-wide – routinely hauling in 90+ ratings.  Robert Parker has called Boekenhoutskloof SA’s top(notch) wine producer.

Wine Spectator: 93 points

Rudi Schultz 2006

Bring out the stogies.  Smoky, spicy, rich, and exotic.  Thelema Mountain Vineyards’ famous winemaker created his own boutique shiraz label, and has been getting 90+ point ratings from Wine Spectator every year since 2002.

Wine Spectator: 93 points

DeMorgenzon DMZ 2009

Bite me – in a vampire kind of way.  Arresting, but very soothing. Berries, spices, lots of tannins.  Lots of red, for surprisingly few greenbacks.   The price is right, shiraz lovers.

International Wine Cellar: 90 points

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Great bang for the buck.   SA top shelf cabs beat a huge chunk of their international competition into the dirt on price.  Cab wine production ranks second in the country.

Boekenhoutskloof  2007

Wine snots will be wiping their eyes, not their noses, when they hit these bottles.  From the makers of the wildly popular Chocolate Block red blend comes this even more elegant cab that will bring tears to the highest wine brows’ eyes.

Thelema Mountain 2008

“The Nuke.”  My secret, red wine weapon for special dinner parties – soft, smooth, and a superstar with rare, red meats and spicy dishes, but equally crowd-pleasing straight up.  I’ve seen this one trump far bigger names and reputations hands down, and all thumbs up.

Robert Parker: 91 points

*Superquaffer Excelsior 2009

Load up the liquor locker and laugh all the way to the bank.  This respectable cab probably takes the gold for most times included on Top 10 under $10 wine lists.  Wegmans’ is the local league leader on price, at $6.49 a bottle.

Wine Enthusiast:  “Best Buy” award three consecutive years, 2006-2008

Robert Parker: 85 points Wine Spectator: 84 points

RED BLENDS

Vergenoegd Estate Reserve 2003 (SA only)

“Fair-ga-nukt” is how they say it, but you won’t need an interpreter to pronouce this velvety red a world class wine. The blend is the ultimate in elegance from this estate known for its trophy reds and 500 working ducks (they eat slugs off the grapes).

Graham Beck Ad Honorem 2007  (SA only)

All eyes on the catwalk for this long-legged ZA supermodel.  Poised, elegant and designed to impress. Strike a pose with this drink in your hand.  Yeah, bab-ee!

Englebrecht-Els 2003

SA golf pro Ernie Els (“The Big Easy”) is not only a master of the links, but the big reds, too.  Turning a chunk of his championship spoils into a Stellenbosch estate in 2000, and teaming up with old establishment red winemaker Jannie Englebrecht of Rust en Vrede has made Els a big winner yet again.

Wine Spectator: 89 points

*Superquaffer Kanonkop Kadette 2009

This pinotage blend will make you happier than a laughing hyena, and leave you scavenging every last drop.  I wish I had a nickle for every “what was that wine you served, and where can I get it?‘  Well-matched and priced for a small, fall-winter dinner party.  At $15 a bottle,  keep’em coming back for more.  Nice price for quality that will impress.

International Wine Cellar: 89 points Wine Enthusiast: 88 points Robert Parker: 85 points

The Everyman’s Guide to South African Wine

Today’s Find:  Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2008

Lately, I’ve spilled plenty of ink on light white wines, and for good reason:  they are the perfect antidote to the dog days of summer. But it’s time to give red wine drinkers their due, and to serve up some alternatives to my beloved South African  ”great whites.”  As I discovered by accident last week, one of the best places to start on summer reds is with pinot noirs.

Regardless of the season, Hamilton Russell, for my money, is one of the best pinot noir bets going.   This Walker Bay winery, nestled between the mountains and located only 3 kilometres from the Atlantic ocean, is blessed with some of the coolest breezes in South Africa. Not surprisingly, the Walker Bay region boasts a number of acclaimed pinots. But it is Hamilton Russell that has stood the test of time, and put the estate in a league all its own. Producing only two types of wine since the mid-90s – pinot noir and chardonnay – the vineyard has made an art form of turning out both.  Still,  it is the pinots which have consistently caught the attention of the pros, hauling in 90+ ratings internationally for several years running.

I’ve had several vintages of the Hamilton Russell pinot, and have yet to find one I didn’t thoroughly enjoy.  But the 2008 vintage gets my vote as the best summer red among the lot.  Medium-bodied, with just the right hints of spice and oak, it is notably smooth and elegant – making it a perfect summer soother.  Lacking the overbearing presence of many other reds, this pinot provides the perfect compliment to light summer fare – especially grilled fish and chicken.  Mix the menu up, and find your perfect pinot food groove, but be sure not to miss this one “straight up.”  Whether you savor this one under the summer stars or by the winter fire, it will be an experience you won’t forget.

($25 – $40) Be sure to shop around for this delicacy, and don’t overlook online options.  Prices on this wine can vary widely, depending on where you buy.

The Everyman’s Guide to South African Wine

Today’s Find:  2010 Southern Right Wines

If there’s one thing I’ve learned over many years of drinking wine, it’s that you can’t go wrong drinking Southern Right.  Aside from the splashy whale logo on its labels, this winery is best recognized here in the states for its sauvignon blanc (SB) – not only is this international best seller widely available in liquor stores nationwide, but befitting its reputation, it’s increasingly showing up on finer restaurant menus coast to coast.   There’s good reason for that in both cases:  it is a nice, earthy SB of substance, and it’s been a consistent performer for many years running.  Not only does it lack the watered down consistency of many well-priced SBs, but its minerality keeps it refreshingly free of the shrill, acidic notes that so often dominate the “breed.”  This may not be your cheapest SB alternative – it runs retail in the $12 – $14 range – but it’s so reliably good, no matter the vintage, that it’s not just a safe choice, but a smart one to please your palate and impress your guests.

If it’s red wine you crave, Southern Right has an equally impressive offering in its pinotage.  It is the only other wine produced at the estate, the winery’s foundation product and its’ winemakers’ specialty. The owners’ focus and drive toward international excellence have paid off here as well, because this wine has also been reeling in rave reviews and high ratings since its first release in 1995.  Rich and complex, yet surprisingly smooth for this distinctly South African varietal, Southern Right is the perfect choice to begin learning the art of the pinotage.  I’ve seen many a pinotage skeptic enjoying this wine – although I’d highly reommend blind tastings to avoid the common pinotage prejudice – and  coming back for more.  One taste and you’ll understand why this estate’s pinotage is well on its way to becoming a world class wine.  Retail ranges from $21 – $23, depending on region.

The Everyman’s Guide to South African Wine

Today’s Find: Pieter Cruythoff Chenin Blanc  2010

($8.99 – $9.99)

I’ve said it many times before, but I’ll say it again:  There’s no time like summer to enjoy SA’s “great whites.”   I’m not talking about the great denizens swimming off SA shores; I’m referring to the greatest SA whites of all – the kind that are shipped here to US shores and are no further than your local wine warehouse………or, in the case of the spot consumer, your local wine shop.

To be fair, it’s the rare day when I find a SA white I don’t like (Yes, that has happened before.  Every region’s got at least a few bargain bin bombs). But I consider it something of a spectacular event when I find a wine that not only tastes great, but it outright flatters my everyday wine drinking budget.  Now that’s something worth celebrating, and sharing with all you kindred summer white wineaux out there!

This summer, the undisputed league leader of my white wine selections is Pieter Cruythoff’s 2010 chenin blanc.   It’s nice and fruity, but easy on the palate, with just enough tang to balance its sweet hints.   It’s amazingly versatile – it will complement just about any summer menu fare, but it also goes down well straight up,  making it an ideal everyday drinking wine.  Reliably enjoyable, and amazingly affordable:  what’s not to love?   Whether you aspire to the after hours glass of wine now and then, every day, or you want a refreshing wine to entertain, this wine will fit the bill without busting your budget. Try a bottle out, and see if you don’t agree.  Then, next time, take a full case for even greater savings, and raise your glass to a true wine bargain!

Couldn’t have said it better myself.  Check out this piece from Vinography..……

The Everyman’s Guide to South African Wine

Today’s Find: The Wolftrap (Viognier/Chenin Blanc/Grenache Blanc) 2009

($8.99 – $11.00)

Spring is here, and summer’s coming.  It’s time to bring out the white wines again.  Not that I ever really put them away, but you get the picture.  There’s nothing like sipping a nice, cool, light glass of vino in the sunshine – especially when temperatures are soaring.

If your’e looking for a good, pleasant white wine that won’t break the bank, – even if you indulge in it as often as I do – the SA shelves are the place to start your search.  SA is quickly becoming for white wines what South America is for reds: the ultimate bargain bin for a motherlode of quality wines.  You have to work hard to find a dud in the lot.  You won’t have to dig to China to unearth some outstanding finds, though.

Ambling through the South African wine section of my local liquor locker last week, I happened upon one of those finds: The Wolftrap 2009 white blend. I generally wince at the thought of viognier in any form, (too sweet for this palate), but I was so intrigued by the combo (40%) with chenin (39%) and super-dry Grenache blanc (21%) in this wine that I was compelled to cast all caution to the wind and give it a go.  Not only was this blend damn good, but it was probably as unique a wine as I’ve ever experienced in the $10 and under range.

Wolftrap white (all Wolftrap labels are blends; the red is also a solid wine and great buy) has a strong, sweet smell, but once it passes the lips, it turns into a laid-back, easy-on-the-palate, little white wine. It has an unusual texture for a white–  ultra-smooth, it is creamy, almost to the point of feeling like a dessert wine.  It’s easy enough to drink straight up, but goes well with mild cheeses, and even better with chicken, fish and green salads. It’s almost as if this stuff were made for drinking out on the garden patio.  But any way and anywhere you serve it, it’s great refreshment, and the perfect summer drink.

Postscript:  Due to lots of emotion, commotion and ultimately, the unfortunate passing of  my dear Rhodesian Ridgeback, Margo last week, South African Wine Finds has been on a bit of an extended hiatus. But we’re back, and will be raising a glass tonight to the wonderful soul who sat beneath foot and under glass from the day I started writing Back to the Wild Life.  The dear girl made many an hour very happy, even before 5:00!  Here’s to her, and hoping that she’s already romping the big vineyards in the sky.