California has its “Sideways.” Here in South Africa , they’ve got their “Upsides Down.” It’s very much a “bottoms up” mentality here in the winelands. Wining here is not just an artsy pastime, it’s a spirited celebration of some of the best the country has to offer, and always an adventure.
I’ve had my “bottoms up” butt planted here in Stellenbosch, the heart of wine country, the past few days, making a full-time career of wining. Although there are more wineries concentrated here than anywhere else in the country, I’ve only used the town as my base camp. I’ve been venturing out to other wine regions, checking out some new routes and going back to some familiar haunts. With so many places in my sights on any given day, I’ve had to start the game early, and go straight through the end every day to hit all my targets.
So it was yesterday that I was up and out at 9:00, there for the opening bell at Beyerskloof winery here in town. I was there to check out the five star Diesel pinotage,, but I started the tasting with a new twist on sparkling: pinotage rosé brut. When I commented on its unique charm to the tasting hostess, she looked me dead in the face, cupped the bottle in her hand like a prized piece of art, and said “it’s absolutely brilliant with breakfast.” Waiting for the punch line that never came, I finally asked, “You serious?” She was as serious as an undertaker, and looked at me as if I was the crazy one for thinking she was kidding. Once again, I was reminded why I love this wine country like no other. As long as you are drinking responsibly, (or more to the point, driving responsibly), anything goes.
Back in “winelands central” this week, I’ve been zeroing in on pinotages and chenin blancs – South Africa’s two specialties. The problem is that I’ve had so many outstanding wines – and just as many great everyday offerings – that it’s been a real contest to figure out which ones are best. Selecting winners from a lineup like this would be like asking a guy to pick a date from a room full of SI swimsuit supermodels. He could easily pick a flavor of the moment, but eventually, he’d want them all.
I was starting to feel the same way about the wineries with the wealth of spoils here, until I came upon some places that jumped out of the pack – and not just for their wines. Vergenoegd winery in Stellenbosch was the first on that hit parade list. I recalled having an outstanding red blend from this estate during the first Wild Life winery tour, so I was really expecting great things when I headed there – but I got even more than I bargained for. The first thing I noticed as I turned in the driveway was a massive pond filled with exotic ducks, and the sounds of what seemed like thousands of screeching birds. I might have underestimated the number of birds, but at least I was on the right track – the place is a bird sanctuary. It’s also home to 500 “working” ducks, a well-organized pack of slug eaters. Watching them head back en masse from the wine fields at the end of the day was a sight to behold. The good news is that the wines were just as memorable; the bad news is that they’re not available in the states yet – unless you count the bottle I’m bringing back with me.
Painted Wolf Wines, based in Paarl, was another one of the unexpected finds on this tour. It’s a mere pup - the winery was founded in 2007 – but it’s already producing some great chenins, pinotage and pinotage blends. What made this place such a standout was its mission: owner, winemaker, chef and wildlife conservationist Jeremy Borg and his wife Emma built an amazing team of grape growers, business people and conservationists not just to produce great, handcrafted wines, but to support the African wild dog. Thus the name Painted Wolf – and the art on all of the bottles.
Talking with Jeremy, it was clear that he’s just as passionate about wildlife conservation – arguably moreso – as he is about making wines, and he’s got the business model to prove it. The winery donates a portion of funds from every bottle sold to the Endangered Wildlife Trust (South Africa) and to the Tusk Trust, one of the top African wildlife charities, based in London. It’s obvious that it’s much more for Jeremy and Emma than putting their money where their mouths are; their passion for the wild dogs and wildlife conservation drives everything they do – in fact, it was their inspiration for starting the winery. Right now, they’re producing nice, surprisingly pleasant yet affordable wines (“The Den” chenin blanc and pinotage, and single vineyard Guillermo pinotage are available in the states – you’ll know them right away by the labels). But they’re not stopping there – they’re moving towards production of an auction quality wine in the next few years. So enjoy a bottle of Painted Wolf now, but keep an eye out for its wines in the future. With the drive this team has for wildlife conservation, and the business helping them achieve their goals of supporting it, there can only be greater things to come from this winery.
Considering all the stops I’ve made this week, you’d think I’d have been content to limit my wine buying to the wineries. Nada. I had set out to try all of the top Platters’ five star wine picks that are still available here in South Africa on this trip, but time has not been on my side. I’ve been reduced to scouting out the local markets in search of the holy grails. Just about every supermarket has a nice wine collection – and then there’s Woolworth’s, or as the locals would say, “Woolies.” For those who remember Woolworth’s in the states, I’m sure that name conjures up images of Granny’s elephant-sized underdrawers, and size GG brassieres. Not here, my friends. Picture skinny jeans and spiky heels (worn by males or females) pushing petite grocery carts full of fresh vegetables and gourmet food, and you’ll have an idea of Woolies, South African-style. These high-end retail stores have chi-chi food markets in them, and in many places, they are simply free-standing food emporiums. Not only do they have nice selections of local wines and “hot shot” picks from around the country, they also have some very fine estate wines hiding behind their own label. It’s a testament to Woolies and their high sensibilities that I’ve come damn close to reaching the finish line on drinking all Platters’ “Big Fives.”
Somehow, on top of all the wine I’ve downed, (and for the record, most of the real tasting has happened at home after the car keys hit the table), I’ve managed to find room for food. As many times as I’ve been here and experienced Cape winelands cuisine, I’ve still been amazed by the offerings. Memorable as the wining ihas been here, the dining’s been even moreso. It’s been one gourmet feat after another. Every time I think I’ve had the standout meal of the trip, and maybe of my life, I’ve found myself having another just as impressive the next day. And at the current exchange rate, I’ve paid less for these delights than I would have for a night out at Applebee’s. That’s not to say I haven’t found some favorites, but since there are almost too many good choices to be true, I’d tell anyone visiting here for the first time, don’t be afraid to wing it at the winery restaurants. It’s hard to go wrong. I’ll just leave my Capelands wining experience at this: the only thing that made one meal far better than the last was the company of friends and fellow winos. That – and thanks again, Richard and Lynn, for introducing me to Bodega, and to Desrae, Andy, the hounds of Buitenverwachting and Jeremy Borg of Painted Wolf wines for spectacular afternoons!
This tour’s been a blast, but it’s taken its toll on me, too. If my body ever was a temple, it has become a total whorehouse this week. I hope my Firm exercise chicks will allow beachballs in their classes, that the treadmill I’ve been eyeing is supersized, and that all my great South African wine finds will be waiting for me when I get back home. Big butt and thunder thighs be damned. The Wild Life winery tour III* will soldier on, down to the last drop.
* Sit tight, US-based South African wineaux – Point 4 version Winery tour will commence next week, in a location near you. Until then……….Bottoms Up!
Up next: Constantia Redux, and all that jazz
